Atari Punk Console (Black Box)
I spent both Friday and Saturday working on these. It’s a version of the Atari Punk Console which is based off a circuit by Forrest Mims III. I built two, one prototype which you don’t get to see and then this finished one built for Tony Sonic. Who in a way sponsored this by paying for all the parts.
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This version has two RCA outputs (for running through stereo effects) and a distortion touch bend. Download audio sample mp3
complete parts rundown after the jump
Here is a complete parts rundown…
Radio Shack
1 – Project Box – $3.69 (270-1803)
1 – Dual PC Board – $1.79 (276-148)
1 – 556 Timer IC – $1.99 (because I frakked up the Mouser order and got SMC version of the LM556)
Radio Shack Cost $8.13 after 8.9% tax, I could have saved more here by ordering this all from Mouser, but I couldn’t stand sifting through the site looking for the right PC board or project box.
Mouser (all these parts are RoHS compliant)
2 – 1/2W 1K ohms resistor – (R1 & R4) – $0.10 ea – 660-CF1/2CT52R102J
1 – 1/2W 10K ohms resistor – (R2) – $0.10 ea – 660-CF1/2C103J
1 – 1/2W 4.7K ohms resistor – (R3) – $0.10 ea – 660-CF1/2C472J
1 – 160V 10uF capacitor – (C3) – $0.18 ea – 140-HTRL160V10-RC (this is a high temp one so you could probably find a smaller size if your cramped for space in your project box)
1 – 50V 10000pF (10nF) capacitor – (C1) – $0.08 ea- 140-50Q5-103Z-RC
1 – 50V .1uF (100nF) capacitor – (C2) – $0.19 ea – 140-50V5-104Z-RC
2 – Linear 500K Potentiometer – (Bleep & Bloop) – $1.40 ea – 31VA505-F (All these Alpha pots have lil tabs instead of lock washers, I broke off the tabs and used them anyway, but you might be able to source some better ones from mouser)
1 – Audio taper 100K Potentiometer – (Volume) – $1.40 ea – 31VJ501-F
1 – 9V battery holder – $0.96 – 534-1295 (I like these because the 9V doesn’t snap in place but it’s completely secure makes for easy battery replacement without dangling the battery in the case)
1 – T1 (3mm) Blue LED – $1.22 – 859-LTL42CB6N (I use these blue LEDs in everything, they are blindingly bright)
Mouser Cost – $7.23 (USPS shipping is ~$4.00, order multiple projects to save on shipping, I ordered 3 sets of parts)
The correct LM556 part number for mouser is 511-NE556 $0.21 ea, I had ordered the wrong one and had to buy mine from Radio Shack for more money
One thing I don’t cover is… knob covers. The Alpha pots that I bought have a 0.25″ shaft and require the set screw kind. I think I would definantley find different pots the next time I order this project as I have some really awesome chrome knob covers but they don’t fit on the Alpha pots I sourced for this project.
You also need a power switch & output jack, I had some laying in the tool box, so thats another couple bucks… figure $20 and you’ll have some change left over.
Out of pocket parts cost – $15.36
This is of course assuming you have Solder, an Iron, and some 22 gauge wire laying around.
This total would be cheaper if I sourced it all from Mouser (or Digikey) and a helluva lot more if I bought it all from Radio Shack
Update: 11-4-2006 Uploaded video of the prototype version in action
October 29th, 2006 at 3:21 am
Hi, this project it’s very cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can you upload some photos about the conncetions under the board??? I would build one but i don’t understand the soldering procedure………thanks a lot!!!!
Alfredo
October 29th, 2006 at 3:41 am
Alfredo,
Unfortunatley I don’t have the exact same one that I took pics of I just have my prototype one which has some slightly different placement of some components, I could do some high rez scans of both sides of the board.
Can you read schematics? If so here is a link to the schematics I based mine off of but I made some slight changes since I was using perfboard and not a printed PCB.
http://www.getlofi.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/atarilayout.gif
I do plan on making another one as I have the parts for one more but I don’t know when I’ll have the time.
October 29th, 2006 at 11:55 pm
You can now snag a couple high rez shots of my prototype board, it’s the best I can do with my camera as I don’t have a macro lens for it.
http://www.natemc.com/albums/BlackBox/apc-highrez-top.jpg
http://www.natemc.com/albums/BlackBox/apc-highrez-bottom.jpg
the stars mark the edges for identification so you can tell which way I switched the board to flip it over.
hope it helps.
Nate MC
February 2nd, 2007 at 5:58 am
Hey Nate, thanks for the demo of what the little box o tricks can do mate.
Looks & sounds like a sweet little gadget *well impressed*
Enjoy !!
Dubs’
September 5th, 2007 at 2:36 am
Your APC looks fantastic……… however I can’t seem to get mine to work. I’m a little confused by getting power to this thing. I see it specifies one output to the 9v and then the other wire goes to a ground? and not to another component on the pcb? i’m just a little confused by this. where should i put that wire and all others requesting a ground? thank you and all the best.
September 5th, 2007 at 2:42 am
The ground all connects to a common point (which is why ground is also known as “common” and then all of those connect to the negative on the 9v thus completing the circuit.
December 19th, 2009 at 8:29 pm
Hi,thanks for the parts list and your pictures,they have been really helpful with my build.
February 11th, 2010 at 3:50 am
thanks for this.. the product #s for mouser was awesome idea.. my first time ordering with them and in my opinion finding anything is the hardest thing i’d had to do haah. Could you please list part numbers for the 1/4″ audio jacks, pc boards, and switches? would be awesome.. I ordered audio jacks from mouser but have no idea if they are the right ones..(568-NYS229). anyway, thanks again. I’ll be trying this over the weekend.